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The cecina at Maruca’s in Tustin is salty and crispy and chewy and buttery — and it is incredibly delicious. Cecina is one of the most underrated meats of the taco world. When it’s done wrong, it’s just stinky beef jerky. But when it’s done right, this lightly air-dried, salt-cured, thinly sliced flank steak is a revelation. The really good stuff is hard to find in Orange County, but the cecina at Maruca’s surely ranks among the best.
This low-key 30-seat restaurant is probably best known for pozole and micheladas, but their taco game has always been strong, and it just keeps getting better. They serve cecina as an entree or as a trio of tacos. They make the latter with corn tortillas, which come loaded with fistfuls of charred beef, grilled onions and peppers, sliced avocado, pico de gallo and the restaurant’s signature creamy green sauce, which is always spicier than it looks. (And they’ll throw in some red chile oil on the side, as well.)
Don’t fill up on chips beforehand because three of these tacos amounts to a lot of food, yet every successive bite becomes even more interesting than the one that preceded it. Before you know it, your plate will be curiously empty.
Where: 137 W. First St., Tustin
When: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Sunday
Phone: 657-212-5828
Online: instagram.com/marucasmexicankitchen
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